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TOUS LES ARTICLES :

LE DERNIER N°
• THE GNAOUA
• ARAB-ANDALUSIAN MUSIC
• HISTORY OF A RELIGION

GUIDO N° 45
• TOWARDS CAPE SIM
• DAR SOLTAN AND BORJ EL OUED
• SHELL FISHING
• THE LMAHALOU SPRING

GUIDO N° 44
• THE ZAOUÏAS
• DOORS HAVE THEIR SECRETS
• DATES AND PALM TREES

GUIDO N° 43
• THE TOWNS OF ESSAOUIRA AND SAINT-MALO: TWIN SISTERS OR MIRROR IMAGES OF EACH OTHER ?
• RAFFIA CRAFT MIRO : AN EXCEPTIONAL DESIGNER
• SAFI COASTAL ROAD KASBAH HAMIDOUCH, AGOUZ, SOUIRA KÉDIMA

GUIDO N° 42
• ETERNAL MAGIC YESTERYEAR MEMORIES TODAY’S IMPRESSIONS - !!!!!
• THE SYNAGOGUE SLAT LKALHAL
• SPICES

GUIDO N° 41
• ESSAOUIRA: « A WORLD WITHIN A TOWN »
• THE NATIONAL TEA MUSEUM IN ESSAOUIRA, A CHINESE AND MOROCCAN PARTNERSHIP
• ESSAOUIRA AND ITS REGION ENHANCED BY THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE ARGAN TREE
• A TOP QUALITY SARDINE

GUIDO N° 40
• UNIQUE MODEL SHIPS IN THE MEDINA!
• AN OUTSTANDING ARGAN TREE! YES, BUT WHY?
• THE DROMEDARY CAMEL AND THE BACTRIAN CAMEL
• LEMONS AND THEIR PROPERTIES

GUIDO N° 39
• EDITO N° 39
• MOULAY HASSAN SQUARE
• BREATHE, SWIM AND MOVE AROUND: SUMMER IS HERE!
• THE GNAOUA AND THE FESTIVAL

GUIDO N° 38
• THE ATTIA SYNAGOGUE: A FUTURE MUSEUM OF JUDAISM?
• THE RETURN OF THE BALD IBIS OR GERONTICUS EREMITA
• AÏN AHJAR OR THE « SOURCE FROM THE ROCKS »

GUIDO N° 37
• PUBLIC LETTER-WRITERS, A LONG LASTING TRADE!!
• THE INLAYERS’ COOPERATIVE
• THE MENZEH (OR WAREHOUSE)
• YENNAYER OR BERBER NEW YEAR OR AMAZIGH
• THE BRIDAL VEIL BROOM OR « BILOUGUI »

GUIDO N° 36
• THE PORTUGUESE CHURCH & THE DANISH CONSULATE
• ELEONORA’S FALCON
• FROM ESSAOUIRA TO SIDI KAOUKI DUNES, DESERTED BEACHES AND FISHERMEN’S VILLAGES

GUIDO N° 35
• REED CRAFTSMEN
• SAFI : THE MEDINA AND THE MARABOUT ALONG THE COAST
• TOWN ZAPPING
• THE TRAVELLER’S TREE OR RAVENALA MADAGASCARIENSIS

GUIDO N° 34
• THE SLAT LAKLHAL SYNAGOGUE
• THE DONKEY: NOT SO STUBBORN!

GUIDO N° 33
• ORGANIC HORSEHAIR : AN OLD STORY!
• FROM OLIVE TO OIL ! : ZITOUN, ZITOUNA, ZIT…
• BLACK OLIVE JAM
• THE TRACKS AROUND SIDI KAOUKI

GUIDO N° 32
• BEACONS AND SEA MARKS : REFERENCE POINTS FOR SAILORS
• WELL BEING CENTRES
• SAFI

GUIDO N° 31
• GNAOUA AND WORLD MUSIC
• A NEW LIFE FOR THE INDUSTRIAL ZONE?
• AZEMMOUR
• THE TAZOTA
• GATHERED IN THE PAPERS AS DAYS WENT BY

GUIDO N° 30
• ESSAOUIRA, THE « EVER-CHANGING »
• THE CAFÉ-HÔTEL AABDI AND THE AABDA TRIBE
• WATCHTOWER-MOUCHARABIEH-PEEPHOLE
• GREEN TOURISM IN IDA OUGOURD
• IN-CITY ZAPPING

GUIDO N° 29
• THE CLOCK
• LA FIXATION DES DUNES À ESSAOUIRA
• THE WATIER STATION - MOULAY BOUZERKTOUN
• BEAUTY SECRETS FROM MOROCCAN WOMEN
• TOWN ZAPPING

GUIDO N° 28
• FESTIVAL OF THE ATLANTIC ANDALUSIAS 2010
• TOWN CHECK
• PARADISE VALLEY

GUIDO N° 27
• THE WOOL SOUK IN ESSAOUIRA, A VANISHING ACTIVITY
• REHABILITATION OF THE ESSAOUIRA MELLAH AND OF THE SCALA AREA
• TAGENZA AND GARA GARA

GUIDO N° 26
• EDITO N° 26
• FLOODING, THE BRIDGES OF DIABET
• THE ZERRAR DAM
• SIDI MOGDUL
• OUALIDIA OR WALIDIA

GUIDO N° 25
• ALICE’S LOOKING GLASS : IOSU URIZ
• THE SOAPS OF MOGADOR

• HAMMAM AND SPA
• ITINERARY IN THE RED TOWN

GUIDO N° 24
• STREET ART
• THE ARGAN OIL FROM SIDI YASSINE
• A TOUR TO NEKNAFA AND ITS « SPA »

GUIDO N° 23
• LOGBOOK ENTRIES : MEMORIES OF THE PORT
• THE SQALAS
• THE WATER
• A TOUR OF THE COASTLINE AROUND ESSAOUIRA

GUIDO N° 22

GUIDO N° 13
• EDITO N° 13

Guido : 41 - ESSAOUIRA: « A WORLD WITHIN A TOWN »

France Culture flagship program “Ville-Monde” dedicated two dates to Essaouira on the 16th and 23rd of June last. The choice was made following three invitations to Essaouira and to some Souiris for its weekly program “Cultures d’Islam”. On this French Cultural model radio program came, for over an hour each, Françoise Atlan, the Director of the Essaouira Festival of Andalusias (3rd of May), Houssein Miloudi, the great Souiri painter (10th of May) and André Azoulay, the advisor to His Majesty King Mohammed VI (17th of May).

Let’s head to Morocco and to its Atlantic coast, Essaouira …The journey starts on the island of Mogador which faces the town from the top of the minaret of the mosque built at the beginning of the 19th century. From this height and distance, one perceives the city surrounded with earthen coloured ramparts and the outline of its white houses and the harbour. On the left, is the Ocean beating the rocks where the ramparts are anchored; on the right, the large cove welcomes and tames the waves; it stretches up to the sand dunes which extend to the green thuja forest then to the argan tree forest, with olive trees here and there… A town opening to the sea born new in the middle of the 18th century “among sand and wind and in the middle of it : nothing”; she was destined to drain the inland trade towards places overseas. This opening outward was reinforced by the welcome presence of foreign legations representing European powers but also America : Morocco being the first country to have recognized the United States of America as early as the Declaration of Independence. This calling gave the town the privilege to welcome various populations residing inland and on the coast : Essaouira, an open and cosmopolitan town. From the Meshouar area to the Jewish quarter through the Mellah to the harbour gates, all the artists we met be they from Essaouira or inspired by the town or living within its walls tell us about this diversity, of this town between East and West, of a town dedicated to “diversity”.

Strings of little mazes alternate with regular orthogonal built up areas : a duality that invites a poetical ramble in the company of the Mexican writer, Alberto Ruy Sanchez whose works of fiction are nourished by the very myth of Mogador. We make our way through the maze with him and other artists from the town and this walk is punctuated by alternating light and shade, by a dense humming coming from stalls and by what is escaping from the patios. A diversity expressed in music too thanks to the Gnaoua who, through their vocal performance in the Arabic tongue, illustrate all the diversity alive in the town and keeping it very much alive.

“The world” is in Essaouira, “ville-mondes”, where artists and foreigners from various horizons come to worship her and to be inspired by her, a town experienced like a “shared passion”, a town which sees some of its own come back to her after having had to leave her. A town which is reborn and lives anew after going through a time of devastation that hardly took anything away from its charm : the whole beat generation succumbed to it as well as the generation of May 1968. At the beginning of the seventies, when Georges Lassalle discovered the town and loved it , he felt so distressed by the state of decay eroding it that he affixed a notice at the entrance of the town that said : “Essaouira : town for sale”… Orson Welles used the decor of Essaouira to figure Cyprus in Othello and Paul Claudel in his play The Satin Slipper was inspired by this Mogador of Africa.

There are also constant regular visitors who try and maintain the myth of the creation of the town very alive in them : like the Mexican writer Alberto Ruy Sanchez who has made a quest of Mogador and like the artists we met who tell of a “shared passion”. This love for the town was alive in the literary works of Edmond Amran El-Maleh whose tomb stands in the marine Jewish cemetery in Essaouira : “Where the trade winds blow/tirelessly sweeping the sky/a transparency clearing the azure/the seagull accompanies the Gnaoua/a petition of Africa on the Jewish tomb/a body outline lit by a halo/ engraved as neatly as the Arabic print/the Berber sign the Latin letter/all watch over their Hebraic sisters/a rustle of wings dampened by foam/wreaths crashing down on the ductile rock”…